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If you’re arriving in Chiloe Island as part of your Patagonian adventure or simply for a short break, then you’re in for a treat in this unique, mythical land unlike anywhere else in Chile.
In our Chiloe Island road trip post, we shared our favourite experiences and places to visit on the island. And even a bit of island hopping too.
These are the essential things to know before you visit Chiloe.
Where is Chiloe Island
The 2nd largest Chilean island, (after Tierra del Fuego in southern Patagonia), Chiloe Island is a little over half way down Chile’s Pacific coast.
The island’s actual name is Isla Grande de Chiloé. Separated from the mainland by the Chacao Strait, the island is the largest of more than 30 making up the Chiloe archipelago.
That makes it prime for a spot of island hopping doesn’t it?
How to get there
There’s no bridge from mainland Chile across to the archipelago so the only way across is by ferry from Puerto Montt to Chiloe Island.
The ferry terminal is in Pargua, about 60 kilometres south of Puerto Montt – follow ruta 5 south NOT ruta 7.
Car ferries run every 15 minutes or so and take about 30 minutes to cross. There’s no need to book in advance either. Just turn up. If you’re unlucky, you’ll queue for a few minutes.
Payment is taken on the ferry in cash only.
Ferry tickets cost for a car 13200 CLP | $19 | £15 | €17 and 28300 CLP | $41 | £32 | €36 for a camper van one way.
If you don’t have your own vehicle, and haven’t rented one in Puerto Montt (which we’d highly recommend), regular buses run from Puerto Montt all the way to Ancud and Castro on the island.
The bus boards the ferry too and the $9 cost of the ferry crossing is included in your ticket.
If coming from Patagonia, Navier Austral operates ferries from Chaitén to Quellón on the south eastern coast of Chiloe.
The 4 hour crossing costs around 15000 CLP | $22 | £17| €18 per person one way plus 111000 CLP | $160 | £126 | €141 for a camper van.
Ferries also operate further south from Puerto Chacabuco to Quellón, useful if coming from Coihaique.
Getting around Chiloe Island
Although Chiloe Island has some public transport between the main towns, we recommend hiring a car.
The main roads on the island are in good condition. The back roads become more narrow and you’ll even find a few tracks if you look hard. A 4 wheel drive vehicle is unnecessary.
A vehicle gives you the flexibility to cover a lot of ground in one day and still take advantage of all the photos opportunities along the way.
Island hopping in a vehicle from Chiloe to some of the smaller islands in the archipelago is a breeze and cheap too.
Where to stay on Chiloe Island
Castro is the most popular town in Chiloe Island. Located about half way down the eastern coast, it’s a perfect stopover and base for exploring the whole island.
There’s hotels, hostels, cabins and Airbnbs all available in Castro so choose to suit your travel style and budget.
Better still, if like us you tour Chiloe Island in a self contained camper van, you have a whole plethora of free camping options open to you!
Take a look at our personal selection of accommodation from hotels and cabins to Airbnbs and campsites on Chiloe.
Weather and the best time to visit Chiloe Island
When Charles Darwin visited Chiloe Island, he said, “In winter the climate is detestable, and in summer it is only a little better…”
Hey, this is Patagonia after all so you have to expect temperamental conditions. In fairness, it’s not as bad as Darwin made out.
Winters is wet. Very wet. April to September sees Chiloe’s rainy season and temperatures fall to around 5°c to 9°c. While you can visit Chiloe year round, avoid June if you don’t like rain.
Summer conditions feel far more respectable with temperatures in the low 20s°c and with much less rainfall.
Even so, it can rain year round on the island so make sure you pack for inclement weather, especially if you plan to go hiking. Waterproofs are a must!
December to March, the Chilote summer, is the perfect time to visit. Because Chiloe is yet to become a major tourist attraction, it doesn’t feel overcrowded even in the height of the season.
How long do I need to visit Chiloe Island
The road running the full length of Chiloe Island is only 200 kilometres long. And at 65 kilometres wide, you don’t need weeks to explore the entire island.
We stayed on Chiloe Island for 6 days but we travel real slow. One of these days we sat out the rain. Another we spent chilling on a deserted beach, unable to drag ourselves away. Did we mention the weather is changeable?
To explore the island well with a balance between keeping occupied but without rushing, a 3 day trip will cover it.
Our travel itinerary on Chiloe Island
This is the route we took over the 6 days we spent on Chiloe Island.
- Forts, beaches and penguins
- Sat out the weather for gloomy photography
- UNESCO Church route and island hopping on the archipelago
- Exploring Castro
- (More) beaches, (more) penguins, pelicans and fresh seafood
- Monument to the end of the PanAmerican Highway (1 of several in South America) and ferry crossing to Chaitén
We’ve cut all the lounging out of how we actually spent our time on the island and added a couple of bits we didn’t do to put together this perfect 3 day itinerary for Chiloe Island. Check it out!
Popular things to do on Chiloe Island
- Explore Castro, the capital of Chiloe Island. Well known for the colourful, stilted wooden houses called palafitos and gaudy looking yellow and purple San Francisco church.
- Visit the UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Chiloe Island once had 150 wooden churches (!) While many are long gone, around 60 still stand and 16 fall under UNESCO protection.
- Nature spotting at the only place in the world where Humboldt and Magellanic Penguins hang out together. For many visitors to Chiloe between November and March, the pinguinera (penguin colony) near Ancud is a must see.
- Check out the last stronghold of the Spanish in all of South America at Castillo San Miguel de Ahui. And sleep on your own private beach while you’re there.
Spanish is spoken all across Chiloe Island. To our ears the Chilean Spanish is unlike the Spanish we even vaguely understand. We may still be trying to improve our Spanish after our language classes in Sucre but even so. Slow down guys!
If you’re a beginner too, ask the person you’re speaking with to slow down. You’ll have a fighting chance of communicating with them then.
Unlike the route along Chile’s Carretera Austral, Chiloe Island has plenty of ATMs. You can find most of them in Castro but most of the other towns including Ancud has at least 1 ATM.
Remember the cost of withdrawing cash is high in Chile. Wherever possible, pay with a credit card or debit card (con tarjecta) rather than with cash (effectivo).
Most restaurants, shops and hotels accept card payments in town. You’ll need cash in more rural areas if you want to buy anything though.
Planning your trip to Chiloe?
Here’s our recommended list of articles for you to get started.
- Where to stay on Chiloe Island
- A perfect 3 day itinerary around Chiloe Island
- Onward travel to Pumalin Park to start the Carretera Austral
- The Carretera Austral road trip route & planning tips